This blog **HAS MOVED** to expat+HAREM, the global niche, where my cultural producer posts now appear in a new series called Founder’s Desk.
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Thanks for spending time at Furthering the Worldwide Cultural Conversation this past year — it’s been a year this month! — I appreciate it.
See you on the other side…
Posted in American culture, culture, friendship, harem, history, identity, memoir, society, taboo, women | Tagged blog migration, expat+HAREM, Founder's Desk |
According to the Tibetans, today is Buddha’s birthday. A prince with everything in the world, he set off on a quest to discover the truth of life. I’m remembering a mindfulness adventure I had this week, fifteen years ago:
Bornean Buddha by A.Ashman
In Borneo, I felt bored and restless at a luxe, manicured Shangri-La resort favored by fugitive rogue traders. Wandering past the watersports shack I asked to go to an outlying island in the South China Sea. No notice to the people I was traveling with, no drinking water, food or cellphone.
The white-uniformed sailor dropped me at the random spot I’d picked from his laminated map. A decrepit picnic bench sagged in the shade of a steep cliff carpeted in greenery, where faceless monkeys screeched. No facilities, no stand selling lunch, no people. Just plastic flotsam and slithery tracks lacing the sand. The hotel boat fishtailed away.
Did they write down where they left me? Lawsuit waiting to happen. Already thirsty. Wait, six-inch wide tracks. From what scaly beasts?
No way I’d approach the trees where those squiggly trails led. I was frying in the tropical sun. Unnerved to cool off in the translucent green water. What if I suddenly ‘had trouble’ swimming, or a shark came? Maybe I could flag down a passing boat to take me back. But these were pirate-infested waters.
Silly overreaching hotel guest, I was going to die on this wild island.
I picked up a 5-liter water jug and started filling it with cones and olive shells glinting among seaweed and garbage. Good stuff. My best vacations were spent shell-collecting in the Gulf of Mexico…Sanibel Island in Florida.
Heavenly new finds here. A true Shangri-La paradise. Zebra-striped scallops. Glossy limpets. Spiky orange coral.
That day as I ringed the tiny island — is that a chickpea cowrie? – I turned the corner on my own nature’s bitter edge.
On this birthday week of Buddha can you name a mindfulness experience you’ve had?
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Posted in culture, history, identity, society | Tagged anger, appreciation, beachcomber, beachcombing, boredom, Bornean, Borneo, Buddha, Buddhism, caprice, civilization, cone shell, coral, cowrie, dependence, desert island, East-West, Florida, Gulf of Mexico, hotel, human nature, Kota Kinabalu, limpet, litigation, Malaysia, mindfulness, monkey, nature, Nick Leeson, olive shell, paradise, pirate, presumption, reptile, resort, Sabah, Sanibel, seashell, self loathing, self sufficiency, Shangri-La, shell collecting, snake infested, snakes, South China Sea, Southeast Asia, suffering, Tanjung Arung, Tibet, Tibetan, travel, tropical island, tropics, wild, wilderness, zen | 5 Comments »
Matador network recently published “what not to do in Istanbul.” Suggestions to avoid crowds, tourist traps, deal with time constraints and low budgets, partake in local customs. It can be an overwhelming city and a list of what not to do is very helpful.
After seven years in this surprising megalopolis I agreed with very few of the suggestions.
I rarely contribute travel pieces anymore — focusing more on cultural identity work and pursuing hybrid entertainment — but since the tourism season approaches here are the points I see differently:
Emirgan Grove by A.Ashman
Ø *Skip Dolmabahçe*. (It’s a 19th century European-style palace and if you’ve ever seen one of those, this won’t be news). No exhibits and you can’t wander by yourself.
√ *Don’t skip Topkapı Palace* and don’t skip the separately ticketed harem tour. (Just go early after a big breakfast like I suggest here). It’s worth seeing the treasury, and the tiled kiosks at the far end of the compound, as well as the kitchens. Also you can pop into the stupendous archaeology museum on the grounds.
√ *Do stay in Taksim* if you want to experience a more authentic Turkish scene. Istiklal is perfect for dining, bar-hopping, strolling, people-watching, cafe-sitting. Some hotels are on raucous streets (travel with earplugs), but not all of them. (Sultanahmet may be close to the historic sites but it’s shark-bait touristy, and lifeless at night.) Taksim is on the Metro line, with a funicular that puts you on the tram to Sultanahmet. The most painless commute in town. Plus, the trek back and forth between old town and Beyoğlu, across Galata bridge, is one you’ll enjoy having to make as my walking tour for National Geographic shows.
√ *Do take a Bosphorus cruise*, just not the overpriced tourist traps from the Eminönü dock. Catch a lovely one hour $5 ferry from the landing behind the Ortaköy mosque like I describe here.
Ø *Skip the Princes Islands* if the reason you’re getting on a boat is for the views and breezes. The high speed boats that carry you to the Sea of Marmara have scratched plastic windows you can’t see out of, and you’re not allowed on deck.
Ø *Don’t accept tea* if you don’t want to spend your time with a particular person, or in a particular place. Don’t confuse a tourism sales tactic with the fabled Turkish hospitality. As a traveler in a big city, it’s still your time, and your choice who you drink tea with. If you’re interested in chatting or shopping, fine. If not, politely decline and keep moving. When hawkers in the bazaar and tourism district are unrelenting a clucking of the tongue and upward roll of the eyes is Turkish for “no, and don’t ask me again”. Plus, apple tea is only for tourists. If you aim to drink tea in a traditional manner, ask for normal black tea.
What would you suggest we *not* do in Istanbul, and why?
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Posted in culture, harem, history, society | Tagged apple tea, archaeology museum, bar-hopping, bazaar, Beyoğlu, body language, Bosphorus, Dolmabahçe, Eminönü, Galata, Galata bridge, Istanbul, Istanbul travel advice, Istiklal, Matador, Matador network, people-watching, Princes Islands, Sea of Marmara, shark bait, Sultanahmet, Taksim, Topkapı Palace, tourism, tourism district, tourism tactics, tourist trap, travel, travel advice, travel service, travel writing, traveler, Turkey, Turkish, Turkish hospitality | 14 Comments »
All this talk about finding your tribe. It’s so rewarding to connect to people with similar world views. True peers.
As we seek our global niche, we’re integrating across all sorts of out-moded boundaries. You could also say we’re segregating along the lines of our true selves.
Perusing a Berkeley Grade School Photos group at Facebook, I marvel at the sea of white faces in the hill school districts in the ’40s to early ’60s — all those boys in their khaki Cub Scout regalia, an aggressive club requirement on picture day. Although the town’s schools were segregated simply by neighborhood, socioeconomic class lines also cut along race so Berkeley voluntarily desegregated itself, one of the first mid-sized American cities to do so. The integration program is reflected in a sudden appearance of multiracial group portraits.
Around the same time, the local government voted to rename its schools, exchanging African American civil rights leaders for the nation’s founding fathers. In a major gilding of the lily, Lincoln became Malcolm X.
At 9, I was bussed to the flatlands to an institution still bearing the name of a gentle Yankee poet. Its yard littered in glass, a burned out car lodged in a stairwell on a Monday morning. A hardcore new learning environment, and new peers!
Perhaps my parents skewed the fuller lesson in ethnic and socioeconomic diversity by signing me up for the academically competitive Asian Cluster classes, which confined me to rooms where Japanese, Filipino and Chinese students gathered. Integration has its casualties too.
What casualties of integration — or segregation — litter the path to finding your tribe?
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Posted in American culture, culture, history, identity, society, taboo | Tagged Abraham Lincoln, African American, Asian Cluster classes, authenticity, Berkeley, Berkeley Unified School District, bussing, Caucasian, Chinese, civil rights, Cub Scouts, Daily Om, desegration, ethnic diversity, Facebook, Filipino, finding your tribe, founding fathers, fourth grade, global niche, grade school class photo, integration, Japanese, Longfellow, Malcolm X, multiracial, peer group, race, school district, seeking our global niche, segregation, socio-economic class, socioeconomic class, tribe, true self, voluntary desegregation, voluntary integration, world view | 5 Comments »